New Orleans, LA
They said to go to Bourbon Street, then they said to go to Frenchman Street, and I will say….go off the beaten path.
New Orleans - the city full of music, great food, and a tragic history. Louisiana was one of many states where slavery was very common and a long practice. The state is also devastated by many hurricanes (especially Katrina in 2005). And it's famous for Vampires (that's a fiction though). But against all odds the people are smiling, laughing, and singing… singing a lot!
It was our second time in this city. The first time we went there in 2011 for our honeymoon. I know, a very strange place to celebrate honeymoon. We did it because we were on a budget, and New Orleans was a new Time Zone for us. As you might know, our goal is to be in every single time zone in the world so that was the perfect occasion. We loved it back then. We loved the food, we loved the music, we loved the prices, but we had to admit - there was too much alcohol on the street. This time we are more mature. We still like good food, great music, and a glass of wine or bourbon. Let’s see how the city, and we changed in the last 7 years.
Bourbon Street - when I ask you what do you know about New Orleans the most people will say Bourbon Street and Mardi Gras. Correct, Bourbon Street is the most famous street in NOLA (New Orleans Louisiana), the street is full of bars, restaurants, some souvenirs stores, but mostly full of balconies. Buildings on both sides on the street have balconies that are part of the bars and restaurants. People love to hang out there and throw Mardi Gras Beads to beautiful women. It is part of the Mardi Gras tradition, but you can see people doing it the whole time. Some even say that you should throw the beads only to those women who will take off the shirt for a few seconds. Getting beads is still a tradition, but showing your breast is less of the thing.
When you ask anybody who lives in New Orleans where to go to listen the good music, they will say Frenchman Street. I will say - off the beaten path. Frenchman Street was a thing years ago. Now it’s just another street full of bars, music, drunk people on the streets, and large drinks inside. The Spotted Cat is still a thing, and people go there to listen good jazz. The other places, they might have a good band, but the venue is missing a vibe, and very often the crowd is louder than the band. So, if you want to dance, party, and have fun definitely go to Frenchman Street!
However, if you are more into a nice, cozy place, to get a glass of wine, and enjoy the music then, I recommend Jazz Playhouse. In my opinion, it's the best place on Bourbon Street. This is how I like to listen to good jazz.
Let’s list all the places you should visit:
Preservation Hall - it's a unique and a must-visit. It was established in 1961, and it's still operating music venue. This is the place where you can listen to real Jazz, feel like in the underground club, and back to the days where music was the most important thing. There are five shows daily. You can buy tickets in advance, they work as skip the line, but also guarantee you a seat. However, they are more expensive than walk in tickets. To get to the show as walk-in, you need to be at least 30 minutes before the show to get your place in the line. You will hear that there is no bar, no restroom, and for walk-ins, only standing space. But you know what - you won’t care. The music is so good that in a minute you forget about all those minor things. You can bring a drink from outside, and the concert last, only 45 minutes, so it's not a big deal to stand for the whole time.
Jazz Playhouse - This is my club - this is what I expected from the Jazz Club. The band is amazing, but the venue adds to the climate. Imagine a room with a small tables, tinted light, an audience who enjoys the show, and a nice drink on a table. Yep - it’s all at the Jazz Playhouse. It’s a part of the hotel, so look for 300 Bourbon Street and get inside.
Fritzel’s - Also, situated on Bourbon Street. It’s a bar, but has a pretty good band, and a beer selection. It gets crowded really fast, so better get there earlier, or late at night.
Spotted Cat - In most places there is no coverage fee. Only to Preservation Hall you have to buy a ticket. To get to Spotted Cat you have to pay a $5 cover fee. Not a big deal. The first time I got there I liked it a lot. My latest experience wasn’t that good but check it out. They change the band daily, so yours might be better. It's definitely a place to visit when you are around on Frenchman Street.
Maison on Bourbon - There is the Maison on Bourbon, and one on Frenchman Street. I prefer the one on Bourbon. It’s another bar venue, but it’s spacious, the band is good, and that’s the most important thing!
New Orleans is about music, as well as food. Famous around the world cajun food is typical for southern regions, including NOLA. Spices are one thing - but the quality of meat and fish - that’s a different story. Great meat you can buy anywhere, but seafood should be your main protein. Don’t forget that Rockefeller oysters were invented there. My favorite restaurant by far, is Peche, but I will add some more recommendations:
Peche - it's a seafood restaurant. Take a 20-minute walk from Bourbon Street to get to one of the best seafood restaurants in the city. Except, regulars like oysters, whole fish, you must try tuna spread. Amazing appetizer.
Acme Oysters - casual restaurant, but a good place if you want to try New Orleans specials like Po’boy sandwich, or Jambalaya. As a name say they are famous for oysters. That’s what we were craving for, famous Acma Oysters. Are they still really good…. they are, but not when you expect to taste oysters. I never had raw oysters there, but I assume they are nice and fresh. I always order there their special, fried oysters. They serve them with parmesan cheese, and melted garlic butter. Garlic and parmesan kills the taste of the oysters. The food is still delicious, it’s just something you don’t expect from oysters.
Palace Cafe - and their turkey pastry sandwich. I am not exactly sure what the secret sauce is but the whole sandwich was delicious. It's still on my mind when I think about New Orleans.
Those are my top choices, but there is plenty of other restaurants. New Orleans, is all about food and music!
I think you got it...food, drink, music, and repeat. They saying you can’t drink the whole day if you don’t start in the morning. And that’s a mantra in New Orleans. Bloody Mary is common for breakfast, and some bars (like in our hotel, Moxy) are open 24/7. However, I strongly recommend leaving the pattern behind, and experience something beyond Bourbon and Frenchmen streets.
Natchez boat cruise - get on a board on one of the oldest steam boats. The city from the boat is not so attractive and the cruise might look like a boring thing, but that’s not the case. It’s great to learn a little bit about the city, listen to great jazz on the cruise, and feel like you are back in time like 40-50 years. You can walk around the boat, and check the steam room, read history of the boat, and so on. So overall very educated trip, and a pretty cool experience.
New Orleans is a specific city. It has a lot to offer and no matter if you are 21 or 61, you will find something cool there. Explore the city on your own, not necessary follow the same path as you did years ago. Each time I go there this city has something new to offer, something suitable to my age, mood, and occasion. Just open your ears, and get lost!
